In January 1920 an illustrated magazine La Pie was founded at
Forlì and published by Aldo Spallicci. The Editorial
claimed: “Nothing can describe Romagna better than our
bread (...).So it is a symbol which cries devotion to our land”.
This statement, together with the name given to the monthly
magazine, shows the ability piadina has to identify and unite
Romagna under one symbol. Identitying piadina with Romagna
predates the foundation of La Pie and is to be attributed to
the famous poet Giovanni Pascoli who called it “the national
bread of the people of Romagna”.
Piadina romagnola, or piada romagnola, pie romagnola, pjida
romagnola, pièda romagnola, pji
romagnola, pida romagnola, in Romagna means a flat mixture
of wheat flour, water and salt and, in some places, other ingredients,
too. The classical piadina romagnola is rolled out thinly with
a rolling pin, placed on a low-rimmed terracotta plate (whose
shape is rather primitive) and cooked on burning embers. You
get a large circular disk, speckled brown by the heat, which
is crumbly, tender with a very delicate flavour, and is best
eaten with good local cured meat, fresh, soft cheese, wild
herbs
and a generous glass of Sangiovese di Romagna.
The basic piadina is made with: 1 kg of flour, 20 g of raising
agent, 180-200 g of lard, a pinch of salt and half a litre
of milk. Piadina traditionally made at home in the countryside
has
the following ingredients: flour, lard, sodium bicarbonate
and sugar. The simplest is made, instead, without lard and
with water
instead of milk
Piadina experts know that it is virtually impossible and perhaps
even wrong to establish the definitive recipe. There are too
many local variations which vary from family to family to establish
the exact formula. The same thing applies for more elaborate
dishes: everyone claims their recipe to be the real one.
It may have many different aspects, but there are some set
limits.
The height, for instance. It cannot be flatter than the piadina
made at Piccione or higher than that made at Forlì.
As far as the size is concerned, it should be as big as the
plate of "Montetiffi" it was traditionally cooked on, you
should not skimp on the filling and it must be well cooked.
So, it is a real riddle for connoisseurs and traditionalists.
Luckily three things are always the same: water, flour and
salt. The rest is a variation on the theme: type and quality
of fat
used, oil, sugar, raising agent and milk. Some people even
use honey
It is quite unusual that something which is not really even
a real dish is such a food puzzle; but, despite this, it can
boast
ancestors and relations all over the world.
It belongs to the same family as Jews’ unleavened bread.
On the other hand, raising agent was used in cooking for the
first time in Ancient Egypt.
Objectively, the piadina can be likened to carasao bread or
thin “carta
musica”, Arabic bread, unleavened rolls found in Turkey,
Maghreb and Eritrea. You can find traces of it in India and even
in Latin America: if we use corn instead of wheat flour, we get
the equivalent of “tortillas".
Piadina can be served with a variety of food since it is so
versatile. Perhaps it is best enjoyed with food which can melt
like cheese
and cured meat. But beware: do not eat it with too salty cured
meat, like ham from Tuscany.
There are just two exceptions to this rule: with wild green
herbs and potatoes, typical of the Tuscan-Romagnol Apennines – but
that’s it.
Pascoli confirms it in one of his poems: "Simple, holy bread
of the poor (...) which is eaten with country herbs...".
You cannot get away from tomato and mozzarella fillings, even
though they have strictly been stolen from pizza, and Nutella,
which it is almost a crime to eat with piadina.
It is all right to experiment, but there is a limit between
the dishes.
In the meantime, our traditional “bread” is enjoying
a financial boom with the commerical success of precooked, packed
piadinas.
It is a sign of the times. It is not made at home anymore,
there is no time and people don’t know how to. This has brought
about the emergence of “piadinerie” or – more
recently – industrially produced packets. It is following
the same road pasta went down.
For many scholars, the change in people’s tastes is due
to the fact that the terracotta plate is not longer used. But
the cast-iron or iron plates are actually excellent substitutes.
There is a secret though: piadina must be eaten no more than
three minutes after it has been cooked or else it will lose its
unequalled fragrance.